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Our Warranty

We take tremendous pride in our work and stand behind all our work we install. Here are the warranties we offer when purchasing services from Rolling Green Landscape and Design, Inc. Below is a general list of our warranty guidelines. Each individual job will be more specific on each proposal. 

  • All Hardscaping has a (5) year warranty

  • All Decking has a (5) year warranty

  • All Roofing and Structures has a (5) year warranty

  • All Landscape installation of Trees, Shrubs and other planting has a (12) month Warranty

  • All Irrigation and Lighting has a (12) month Warranty

  • Limited Warranty on Seeding and Sod

Lawn Care Instructions

  • Watering regularly – Remember!! Best to water longer and deeper and less frequently verses shorter and more frequently

  • Mowing properly and regularly. When it comes to mowing, there’s one axiom to observe.  That’s the rule of one-third.  It says:  Never remove more than one-third of the surface area of the grass blade at any one time.

  • Fertilizing at the right times of year, with the proper amounts. We recommend (6) times a year minimum.

  • Weed control – if you control the weeds you let the grass grow. We recommend (2) pre-emergent applications and (3) post-emergent applications

  • Insects, Pests and Disease – Keep a check on your lawn for problems. Try and treat these problems as soon as they occur and as often as needed.  If you are not sure, call a professional.

  • Liming – Get the soil tested by the local extension service and follow their recommendations. Good PH is so important.

  • Aerating – perform at least once every 2 years depending on the location of you home and soil types (Sand less, clay soils more). Aeration promotes root growth, helps in watering, which helps the grass grow and makes a healthy and well established lawn.

  • Over-seeding – do this as much as you can in order to thicken up your lawn. Adding seed helps fill in the thin areas and thickens up the good areas. The best time to do this is in the fall. Do not use any weed control 60 days after seeding or prior to installing new seed.

Plant & Tree Care Instructions

  • Watering is the most important factor in caring for your new planting, especially for the first few months after installation. On average, a thorough weekly watering throughout the Spring and Autumn months will be sufficient. During the Summer (June through September) when rain is scarce, watering twice a week will most likely be necessary. 

  • It is essential that winter protection be provided for newly planted landscapes. Broad-leafed evergreen shrubs like azalea, rhododendron, holly, Japanese holly, evergreen magnolia, and laurel are of particular concern. (Also trees like spruce, pine and fir although not leafy, can still benefit from winter care) Winter damage occurs when strong cold winds blow through the plants, pulling moisture from the leaves. Since roots are frozen solid in the soil and can't absorb water to replace lost moisture, the leaves simply dry out. The damage to untreated plants will be very obvious in the spring. Deciduous (leaf losing) trees and shrubs are not affected in this way.

  • After about a year, your beds will probably need remulching. If soil is showing through the mulch here and there, and weeds are becoming more frequent, it is probably time to re-do the bed work. We recommend early Spring as the best time to work on this since you'll be able to take care of several maintenance procedures all at once. Complete any touch up pruning necessary to neaten up the appearance of you plantings. This is also a good time to do drastic cutting back if necessary to reduce the size of shrubs and trees. Next remove any weeds, taking care to remove the roots as well as the tops. A flat edge spade will be handy in re-cutting the edge of the beds to redefine a neat line and slow down grass encroaching from the lawn. Now, complete fertilizing as described  under that topic. Apply a granular pre-emergent herbicide. This will prevent new seeds from germinating and creating a new crop of weeds. Pre-emergent herbicides are sold under several brand names such as Preen, Eptam and Treflan. Pay close attention to the application rate recommended on the bag instructions. These products will not harm shrubs and trees. Apply a layer of new mulch. Triple-ground hardwood bark is overall best since it has a neat appearance, decomposes slower than other mulches and once packed by rain and watering, will not blow around in wind. Spread the mulch with a pitchfork if your beds require only a light cover. For a heavier coating dump mulch in scattered piles and rake smooth with a steel rake. Mulch will help to inhibit weeds and hold moisture in the soil as well as providing a neat appearance to the beds.

  • Most of the plant materials installed by Rolling Green are varieties that have few insect problems. Unfortunately, every planting will have some plants that are susceptible to insect damage. Because of the number and variety of different insects, it is impossible to avoid a confrontation once in a while. Be conscious of your planting as you water, when you walk past the trees and shrubs each day and when mowing the lawn. Pay closest attention in the Spring when new shoots and leaves are young and tender. This is the time that leaf-eating insects are most prevalent. It is a good idea to have a bottle of insecticide and sprayer stored safely in your garage or basement just in case the need arises. Having one on hand will allow you to treat the problem as soon as it's noticed. Prompt attention to an insect problem can mean the difference between saving and losing an entire tree or group of shrubs.

  • Here are some of the basics for pruning shrubbery. Pruning should be started after the plants make new growth in the Spring, the first year after planting. Don't allow the plants to grow uncontrolled even if you wish to allow them to accumulate some size. The idea is to prune a little each year to prevent the shrubs from getting overgrown. Some plants like junipers and azaleas are best trimmed with hand pruner’s one branch at a time to keep the natural shape. Others, like yews and Japanese holly may be trimmed with shears to create the more formal, tailored look of a hedge. Allow spring growth to stretch out completely to maturity before pruning. Late June and early July are good months to prune most shrubbery. Flowering shrubs like azaleas and rhododendrons should be pruned soon after they flower. New growth after this time will carry new buds for flowers next Spring.It is necessary to do touch up trimming again in late Summer or early Fall to take care of stray branches and neaten up hedges which tend to sprout scattered shoots through Summer.Each year, remove a few of the thick old stems from the base of large leafy shrubs like viburnum, forsythia and lilac. This will encourage new shoots and more abundant flowering.

  • Fertilizing is a frequently overlooked aspect of plant care. Newly planted trees and shrubs normally have enough fertilizer in their container or root ball to carry them through one season. Beyond this point the plants benefit from additional fertilizer on a yearly basis. You will know the plants are lacking in nutrients if the color is pale or yellowed or if the plants make little new growth in Spring. The best time to fertilize is in Spring. Fertilizing in late March through April will allow nutrients to reach the plant roots in time to push a lot of new growth during the Spring growing period and promotes rich color as well.

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